From there, sheets of tile backerboard are fastened to the wall framing, and another 2 to 3 inch layer of Portland cement and sand are applied over the membrane, again sloped towards the drain. The membrane also extends several inches up the walls of the shower framing, creating a waterproof pan. Next a waterproofing membrane (a product called Chloroloy is a popular choice) is laid down over a layer of felt paper (sometimes called “tar paper”), covering the sloped mud bed and integrating with a flange on the adjustable drain. We have an excellent start to finish article, Installing a Leakproof Shower Pan, on the process, but here’s what’s involved:Īfter the shower has been rough framed, a thin layer of Portland cement and sand (aka “mud”), just wet enough to cling together, is laid across the subfloor and pitched toward an adjustable drain in the center, or to a linear drain along one of the edges. This is the traditionalist approach to preparing a shower floor, and requires some labor.
3 Popular choices for a custom shower panĪll three of these methods will result in a professional-quality installation, but the one you choose will be dictated by how much labor you’re willing to put in (or pay for), and how custom you want the job to be. But, if you’re thinking of installing a tile shower floor, you’ve got some decisions to make when it comes to your method of installation.
If your next bathroom remodel includes a tub or prefab fiberglass shower base, then the installation is going to be pretty straightforward.
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